The cuisine of the Sephardi Jews is an assortment of cooking
traditions that developed among the Jews of Spain, the Mediterranean,
Turkey and Arab countries. Jews in the Diaspora, both Ashkenazim and
Sephardim, cooked foods that were popular in their countries of
residence, adapting them to the requirements of kashrut. Their choice of
foods was also determined by economic factors, with many of the dishes
based on inexpensive and readily available ingredients. Meat had to be
slaughtered in keeping with Jewish dietary laws, and then soaked and
salted. Hence it was reserved for holidays and special occasions. Many
Sephardi dishes use ground meat. Milk and meat products could not be
mixed or served at the same meal. Cooked, stuffed and baked vegetables
are central to the cuisine, as are various kinds of beans, chickpeas,
lentils and burghul (cracked wheat). Rice takes the place of potatoes.
History
Jews lived in the Iberian Peninsula until their expulsion in 1492.
When they left, they took with them traditions of cooking that have
remained until today. The Jews of Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, Bulgaria,
Turkey, Yemen, Iraq, Syria, Egypt and Iran all adapted local dishes to
the constraints of the kosher kitchen. Since the establishment of the
State of Israel and the convergence of Jews from all the globe in
Israel, these local cuisines, with all their differences, have come to
represent the collection of culinary traditions known as “Sephardi
cuisine.”
Sephardi and Ashkenazi cuisine: similarities
Like Jewish cuisine everywhere, Sephardi cuisine was influenced by
the laws of kashrut and the observance of Jewish holidays, with its
array of symbolic foods. Although Jews were dispersed throughout the
world, all Jewish communities abided by a core of religious law that was
universal: They kept kosher, observed Shabbat and celebrated Jewish
holidays. Like Ashkenazi Jews, Sephardi Jews maintained the separation
between meat and milk, ate only kosher meat, and developed cooking
techniques that allowed them to eat a hot meal on Shabbat. They ate a
pre-fast meal before Yom Kippur, foods fried in oil on Hanukkah and
matzah on Passover. But it was the local culture of the lands where they
lived that shaped the finer details.
Sephardi and Ashkenazi cuisine: differences
Coming from the Mediterranean and “sunny” climes, Sephardi cuisine is
lighter in character than Ashkenazi cuisine, with an emphasis on
salads, stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, olive oil, lentils, fresh
and dried fruits, herbs and nuts, and chickpeas. Meat dishes often make
use of lamb or ground beef. Fresh lemon juice is added to many soups and
sauces. Many meat and rice dishes incorporate dried fruits such as
apricots, prunes and raisins. Pine nuts are used as a garnish.
Pomegranate juice is a staple of Persian Jewish cooking. Kubbeh, a
meat-stuffed burghul dumpling, features in the cooking of many Sephardi
communities. It is served in the cooking broth, as a kind of soup.
Fish and Meat
On Shabbat, the Jews of North Africa serve hreime, fish in a spicy tomato sauce.
Herbs and Spices
Cumin, coriander and tumeric are very common in Sephardi cooking.
Cardamom (”hel”) is used to flavor coffee. Chopped fresh coriander and
parsley are popular garnishes. Chopped mint is added to salads and
cooked dishes, and fresh mint leaves (”nana”) are served in tea.
Cinnamon is sometimes used as a meat seasoning, especially ground meat.
Hilbe, a paste made from fenugreek seeds and hot pepper, is added to
many traditional Yemenite dishes. Skhug, a hot pepper sauce, comes in
two varieties, red and green.
Desserts and Beverages
Tiny cups of Turkish coffee, sometimes spiced with cardamom, are
often served at the end of a festive meal, accompanied by small portions
of baklawa or other pastries dipped in syrup or honey. Hot sahlab, a
liquidy cornstarch pudding originally flavored with orchid powder (today
invariably replaced by artificial flavorings), is served in cups as a
winter drink, garnished with cinnamon, nuts, coconut and raisins. Arak
is the preferred alcoholic beverage. Rosewater is a common ingredient in
cakes and desserts. Malabi, a cold cornstarch pudding, is sprinkled
with rosewater and red syrup.
Pickles and Condiments
Olives and pickled vegetables, such as cucumbers, carrots, cabbage,
cauliflower, are a standard accompaniment to meals. Amba is a pickled
mango sauce. Small pickled lemons are a Moroccan Jewish delicacy.
Cooking techniques
As cooking on Shabbat is prohibited, Sephardi Jews, like their
Ashkenazi counterparts, developed slow-cooked foods that would simmer on
a low flame overnight and be ready for eating the next day.The Sephardi
version of cholent is called “chamin” (from the word “cham,” which
means “hot”). The potatoes and barley used in Ashkenazi cholent are
replaced by rice and hard boiled eggs. Borekas are often served on
Shabbat morning. In Yemenite cooking, Shabbat dishes include jahnun and
kubbanah.
